Useful Links

Here is a list of some useful links to better understand the terminology used in a report.
This list is guidance only and might be used only as a first step in a search for information about a significance and importance of issues outlined in the report. For more information, please, ....  

Building work that does not require a building consent

Please refer to corresponding parts of a report.

 

1. PARTICULAR ATTRIBUTES (design issues)  

  1. Steep, sloping section    

  2. Envelope complexity    

  3. Flat roof    

  4. Narrow or no eaves    

  5. Internal gutters    

  6. Concealed gutters    

  7. Multiple cladding type    

  8. Monolithic cladding    

  9. NO cavity presence    

  10. Irregular window heads    

  11. Areas below ground level    

  12. Cantilevering balconies    

  13. Balconies over living space    

  14. Solid baluster attached    

  15. Attachments: pergola etc.    


2. RISK FACTORS (workmanship issues)

  1. NO adequate clearances roof/cladding

  2. NO kick out type flashings

  3. Buried fascia

  4. Excessive Cracking

  5. NO control expansion joints

  6. NO/ Incorrect head flashings

  7. NO/ Incorrect jointing flashings

  8. NOT/ Poorly sealed windows/doors

  9. Flat window sills

  10. Poorly sealed Penetrations

  11. NO adequate clearances cladding/ground

  12. Flat balusters top

  13. Railing penetrating membrane from the top (balconies)

  14. Tiled over membrane (balconies)

  15. NO adequate threshold (balconies)


SAFETY notes                                                       

  1. Fall height

  2. Deck railing height

  3. Deck railing space

  4. Smoke Alarms

  5.  Alarms


ISSUES by year built. POSSIBILITY OF                                                       

  1. No timber treatment (critical years: 1998-2004)

  2. No wall insulation (critical years: before 1978  incr.2004)

  3. Led paint (critical years: before 1980/1965, esp. pre-1945)

  4. Asbestos presence (critical years: before mid-1980) - Locations Where Asbestos May be Present

  5. Re-roofed     Re-piled    Re-wired     Re-plumbed

  6. Dux-Quest Pipes. Late 1970’s to early 1980’s https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fffk33PZPkg

 

Building work that does not require a building consent

Ministry of Business, Innovation and Employment (MBIE)  http://www.dbh.govt.nz

This guidance is issued under section 175 of the Building Act 2004.

Schedule 1 of the Building Act details the type of work that does not require a building consent. It clarifies the types of building work that are exempt and who can carry out this work.

 

In November 2013, Schedule 1 was amended to make the exemptions easier to use.

Download the guidance: Building work that does not require a building consent (third edition 2014, amended June 2016]

 

Previous version

The second edition 2010 is superseded but is available as a guide to consent requirements for work done prior to 28 November 2013.

Download the guidance: Building work that does not require a building consent (second edition - 2010) [PDF 1.2 MB, 60 pages]

Doing your own electrical work (By EnergySafety)

As a member of the public, the law allows you to carry out some of your own electrical work.  However, Energy Safety does not recommend that you do any of your own electrical work unless you have the necessary skills and knowledge. 

 

The following information is intended only as a guide and provides information on the minimum legal safety requirements for doing your own electrical work safely and legally.  Neither this information nor the Electrical Codes of Practice are do-it yourself guides or manuals.  Knowledge and skills are essential.

And remember: You must get the finished work tested and connected by a licensed electrical inspector who will verify the safety of the completed work before connecting it. It is advisable to have consulted the inspector prior to starting any installation, extension, or alterations.

 

Please read an Energy Safety full article here: doing your own electrical work

ISSUES:


Dux Quest

Dux Quest was an early type of black plastic piping used in houses in the late 1970’s to early 1980’s. Within ten years or so, it was recognised as a serious problem with pipes and fittings bursting all over the country.

 

Safety:
Visual fungi/mold presence - interior, exterior
http://www.hgtv.com/design/decorating/clean-and-organize/common-problems-found-during-home-inspections

Clients to Read link
http://www.leakyhomes.org.nz/Leaky_Homes_Overview.pdf


http://www.ahit.com/news/how-to-inspect-grading.htm


Poor sub-floor ventilation for timber floors.

Importance of treated timber -
In 1995, a change in the New Zealand standard for Timber Treatment (as
referenced in Acceptable Solution B2/AS1) allowed the use of untreated kiln-dried timber in wall framing. The problem with this untreated timber framing is if it gets wet, the timber starts to rot.....quickly.
 
Grade sloping
Grade sloping (or draining) back toward the home. This could lead to damp or wet crawlspaces, foundation movement, cracking or settlement. Water wicking up the foundation could lead to rot in the walls, framing members and mold. Some indications of foundation movement include windows that are out of square; interior doors that have large, uneven gaps at the top when the door is closed; or floors visibly out of level. If you see this, know that the cost to correct this problem could add up quickly.

Landscaping and grading is not just for a beautiful appearance around your home, but is also needed to keep basements and crawlspaces dry and prevent structural movement.

If we have a light rain, the soil soaks up the moisture and there is rarely an issue, but when we have a good downpour or even simply a steady rain when the ground is already saturated, the water is going to flow somewhere. A proper grade will allow the water to flow away from the home and foundation. A negative grade allows the moisture to flow back towards the home and seep into the soil. The more rain and the more saturated the soil is to begin with, the more of a pressure this moisture puts on the foundation forcing itself through the foundation and into the basement/ crawlspace

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